Mui Ne? Mui YAY!

After Tet, we were ready for the beach! On Monday afternoon, Jenny, Khanh, Matt, and I hopped on a bus for Mui Ne in the Eastern part of Vietnam. Bus seats were assigned with zero room for negotiation. When a woman asked to sit in front because she gets sick, he started yelling and informed us that we could sit in our assigned seats or stay in Saigon. The 4 hour bus ride turned into almost 6 and we arrived hot, tired, and ready for a shower. We had originally paid for bungalows on the beach...instead, we got a room with a small window overlooking the green, algae-filled pool. We negotiated hard for a better location and ended up slipping the security guard money for an extra room. Jenny and I snagged a bungalow overlooking the pool with bugs thrown in at no extra cost. We showered and left with the boys to go in search of dinner. We walked along the deserted highway with only motorbikes and taxis passing us. Most restaurants were closed, since it was almost 10:00pm. We wanted seafood and lucked out when we came across a seafood place full of plastic chairs and plastic tablecloths. The dinner was family style without much shellfish. Jenny has a wicked allergy to the tasty creatures. The boys and I shared crab with tamarind, which was spectacular. Feeling full, we hopped in a taxi and went back to the hotel to sleep. Jenny and I have been in the habit of sleeping late, and our first morning in Mui Ne was no exception. We slept late and got only to wander down the beach for a day of sun and sea. The South China Sea was beyond pretty. We drank iced coffees in the shade of palm trees, before beginning the ultra stressful task of basking in the sun. That evening, we met the boys for dinner after massages. Beauty treatments are so ridiculously cheap, so I am partaking as often as possible. The massage was heaven and a perfect completion of a day of rest and leisure. Since I had been in the sun all day, I opted for the aloe vera massage. As we were waiting for the appointments, we watched fresh aloe arrive. I love Southeast Asia! Everything is fresh! Seafood was on the menu once again for dinner, however, our choice was an epic fail. After 2.5 hours, we were served a plate of raw fish and a kettle of broth to cook the fish in. Apparently, it takes 2 hours to plate fish for a hotpot. We were lucky that the company was good and the conversation effortless. The boys had found a sweet restaurant earlier in the day, so that was our destination for after dinner drinks. We walked into Sankara, which was like a scene from a Puff Daddy video. The bar was filled with cabanas, white curtains, and an open bar. In short, the place was fabulous. In Vietnam, alcohol is not served past 11 without a major bribe for the officials. In Mui Ne, most things are open late, so we took in as much of the night life as possible. The following day, we slept late again and awoke in time for facials. The dragon fruit mask used fresh fruit and my skin soaked it up. I met up with the boys and sat by the beach watching kite surfers. We ate dinner in a little place that looked dingy but had great food. I've decided that the dirtier the place, the better the food will probably be in Vietnam. We left Mui Ne the next day, but not before checking out Joe's Restaurant for breakfast. It's run by an American from Vermont and has a super chill atmosphere. It is the only restaurant opened 24 hours a day in Vietnam. Gotta love that tradition of being able to get food anytime you want. The bus back to Saigon was roomy, and I slept well. We did see a terrible motorbike accident while stuck in traffic outside the city. The body had already been moved, but the image of the blood on the street has stuck with me. I'm amazed I haven't seen more accidents. Khanh, Jenny , and I walked in search of the best deal for a guesthouse and ended up at Hotel 96 in the heart of the backpacker district. Rooms have been super cheap, so Jenny and I got a double room for $15. Gotta love those rooms for under $10/person. Friday brought a beautiful day in the city and a plan for seeing the sights. We went to the Presidential Palace. The palace was totally uninspiring, especially since it was historically the locale of the fall of Saigon. We also went to see the War Remnants museum. While at the museum, I stood in front of the display about Agent Orange and cried. It's hard to be an American in Vietnam and not feel horribly about the war. There were pictures of babies born in 1997 that suffered from deformities due to Agent Orange poisoning. It was so tragic, and I had to get out of there. I understand that most of the museum was propaganda in support of the communist government, but the people suffered regardless. Jenny and I went for a lovely dinner of tapas and sangria. On Saturday, we meant to get up early and go see the Cu Chi tunnels, but we both ended up sick. We had gone to bed early, yet spent the night with stomach cramps. Instead of seeing the tunnels, we laid in bed nursing our painful stomachs. We did roll out of bed and ate a little something around 1. Food helped a bit, so we were off to the market and the Notre Dame Cathedral. The post office was beautiful and designed by Eiffel, so the building contained tons of French architectural flairs. Since we still weren't 100%, we went back to the guesthouse to pack and get ready for the next day. I left super early for my 2 day adventure through the delta and entrance into Cambodia. It was sad to leave Jenny, and I was nervous about traveling by myself. The Mekong and more adventures awaited.

Tet is not just an offensive

Jenny and I spent Thursday and Friday hanging out in Hanoi, but things were definitely calming down in anticipation of the Tet, the Lunar New Year. By Friday night, most shops and places were closed. For dinner, we ate a Tet cake, which is essentially the Vietnamese version of fruit cake. It's sticky rice shaped into a square with a pork and corn filling. It was absolutely delicious and filling for our very quiet night in. We had a very early morning flight from Hanoi to Saigon, so we went to bed early. The next morning, the taxi picked us up at 5:30 am. The city had cleared out since a large chunk of people went back to the villages to be with family for Tet. The flight was uneventful and quick. We were checked into our hotel and settled by ten. A walk was in order, so we wandered down the street. We passed a stand selling egg breads. I was skeptical, but Jenny said they were wonderful. The egg breads are essentially scrambled eggs in a roll with fresh herbs and vegetables. It was very yummy and we found a pretty bench in the midst of the flower market to eat. Tet preparations were in full force. There were flowers everywhere and people buying everything they might need. We wandered and found cheap sunglasses. I figure I need at least two pairs, since I tend to lose and break any that I buy. Khanh, Jenny's friend from Hanoi, met us around eleven. We grabbed a quick snack at a food stand before heading back to the hotel. The early morning had caught up to us, and we needed a nap. We met back up with Khanh after our rests and went to dinner. Matt, another ex-pat working in Saigon, met us for dinner. It was a delicious Vietnamese place. Before dinner, we checked out a pedestrian only street in district one. The street was full of families and flower displays. Saigon was beautifully decorated for Tet. I loved seeing Tigers everywhere, since this year is the year of the tiger. My birth year was the year of the tiger, which means that this is a very auspicious year for me. I feel a job coming my way. :) I loved watching the people and see all of the adorable kids excited for Tet. After dinner, we got a tour of the area and grabbed a drink at a swanky bar. Midnight rolled around and we found ourselves outside with thousands of motorbikes and their riders watching the sky. Fireworks began and the show went on for at least 30 minutes. I was expecting cheers, hugs, and kisses like our New Year's celebrations. The Vietnamese are much more reserved. They watched the fireworks and then went home to drink with their families. The evening ended late, but very well. We slept late and went to Khanh's family's house. It is tradition to spend the day with family eating. Holidays around the world seem to involve copious amounts of food consumed in the name of family time. His family was absolutely lovely, so I spent much of the afternoon listening. His cousin's husband decided to share a special drink with us. Earlier in the day, I had noticed a jar with a stack of snakes in it. The snakes were coiled and stacked on one another with a liquid covering them. It turns out this liquid is drinkable. A small cup of the snake wine was collected and we took shots of it. After drinking it, we were told to smell the glass. I definitely could smell the snake. Apparently, the wine is good for virility and back ache. I was just glad to not throw up. Dinner was an absolutely delicious lamb hot pot. We left absolutely stuffed and ready for bed. I had survived and loved my first Tet celebrations. This year will definitely bring wonderful adventures, experiences, and growth. What a fabulous way to start the year of the tiger. I hope your Tet was as wonderful as mine.

Melting in Vietnam

Updating has been much more complicated than I thought it would be. There doesn't seem to be enough time to see and experience all the sites and write everyday. My last four days in Hanoi passed peacefully. I finally got the feeling that I knew where I was in the city. I spent the mornings lounging and reading and the afternoons exploring. On Wednesday, Jenny and I went with a friend of hers, Trang, to the Perfume Pagoda. Contrary to the name, there is no perfume anywhere near the pagoda. We began the journey early in the morning and spent two hours on a mini bus with other tourists. The only way to the pagoda was via small rows boats. The hour long boat ride was serene and beautiful. We were on a quiet river with lush vegetation on both sides. All along the river we saw graves. Traditionally, Buddhists are buried in above ground graves and left for three years. After three years, someone goes and collects the bones. The bones are given to the family for the altar at home. Trang told us that the there are certain people who have the job of collecting the bones. It's a terrible job, but a decent way of earning a living. Our boat docked and we began the ascent to the pagoda. By this time, it was ridiculously hot. Jenny and Trang were fine, but I was melting. My body was waaayyy too used to the cold and was in shock. I had to rest often, but I finally made it to the top. We climbed the stairs down into a cavern that opened into a pagoda. It was absolutely breathtaking. The cave was cool and dark, yet the altars were filled with candles and offerings. We spent some time in peace before hiking back down. The climb down was much easier, and lunch was ready for us at the bottom. We were on the boat at sunset, so our entire boat ride back was during sunset. There were very few other boats around. The peace of the countryside was engulfing and so needed after the commotion and chaos of Hanoi. The entire day was lovely, but we were so sweaty and dirty by the time we got back to the city. We only had the energy for a milkshake and then showers before bed. Sleep came easy after the long day.

Good-bye Seoul, Hello Hanoi

Thursday, February 4th
Last night was the first night that the hostel wasn’t full. It ended up being only one other girl and three guys sharing a room. I, of course, was exhausted by the time I returned home. I had made plans to meet Steph in the morning and see a few last sights in Seoul before heading to the airport. I slept well, but was once again awake very early. I’m trying my hardest to get my body on Asian time, but I’m having some difficulty. This morning, I forced myself to sleep until 7:30. I quietly packed and got things in order. Mary does not like to get up before 9, so I waited until 8:45 to knock on her door for coffee and toast. Steph met me closer to 9:30 and we were off! The first stop was the Namdaemun Market. I had some things I forgot at home to pick up, and the market is a great way to observe the culture and feel of the city. We had made plans to head towards one of the palaces for an 11:30 tour. Today was much, much nicer than yesterday, so we were feeling up to being outside a bit. The palace is a UNESCO heritage site, so it’s beautifully preserved. The highlight of the tour was the Secret Garden towards the back of the grounds. I can only imagine how magnificent it would have been during the spring and summer. After the palace, we went to Insadong for a vegetarian meal. The dish was noodles with spices and vegetables and was so spicy it hurt. I absolutely loved it! The spices and flavor was superb. I’m surprised Steph doesn’t eat there every day! I hadn’t found exactly what I was looking for at Namdaemun the first time around, so we headed back. I bought everything I needed in record time, so we had some free time to wander through the streets and take in the sights. I made it back to the hostel with plenty of time to finish packing and catch my shuttle to the airport. While grabbing my pack, the other girl in the hostel struck up a conversation. Lin was absolutely wonderful and from China. I regrettably told her that I wouldn’t make it to China on this trip. Her response was to give me a red ornament in celebration of Chinese New Year. I hope she’ll be able to come visit or we’ll meet up somewhere in the world. I love meeting people in the hostels! It’s such a great group of people who choose to travel and stay in hostels.
I caught my shuttle without a problem and entered the airport amid the apparently thousands of others flying today. I made my way to Asiana Air and stood in line for a ridiculous amount of time. I have never seen so many people carrying three or more bags per person. I wandered through the Seoul airport and made my way to the gate to read. I was getting incredibly tired, so I opted to veg out while waiting to board. The flight to Hanoi was uneventful, and I quickly fell asleep. I was lucky enough to be in the front row of coach, so I had lots of leg room and could stretch out. There was a little girl sitting next to me who had rarely seen white people and spent the entire flight staring at me. She was absolutely adorable, and I was tempted to bring her home with me. I need to get over feeling self-conscious, especially since I am just starting my trek through Asia. I arrived in Hanoi and was giddy with anticipation. I was totally unsure of what to expect for the customs experience in Vietnam. Instead of meeting a Communist blockade and having to navigate the murky waters of describing why I should be allowed to enter the country, I passed through security and customs without pause. I ordered a taxi from the information desk and paid an exorbitant fee for a car into the city. I paid the fee for the very simple reason that it was late and I was in a completely foreign city.
The trek through the countryside to Hanoi was beautiful, even though it was completely dark outside. I arrived at the alley of Jenny’s house and walked down. Had her house not been next to the house of the US ambassador, I would have been much more nervous about walking down a dark alley. I rang the bell and was so excited to see Jenny descend the stairs! I got the grand tour of the house and immediately fell in love with it! The house is tall and narrow, and Jenny’s room is on the fourth level. Each level has one room that opens to the beautiful staircase. The top floor is the laundry room with a balcony for drying. I met Jenny’s roommate and the two Americans who were visiting. Jenny and I stayed up late chatting and catching up. I am so excited to spend the next two weeks exploring and spending time with her.
Friday, February 5th
Jenny had to work today, so I slept in and unpacked. YJ, Jenny’s roommate, took me to find a money exchange and grab lunch. During the motorcycle ride, I encountered the chaos that is traffic in Hanoi. There is no rhyme or reason to the flow of traffic and it appears that everyone is going to crash at any moment. I cannot imagine crossing the street, let alone driving through it. My first experience with Vietnamese food was a hot pot with seafood. The servers brought an open flame grill with a pot filled with broth. The entire plate of raw seafood was dropped into the boiling broth. The plate had shrimp, fish, frog legs, squid, and oysters. I tried the frog legs, which honestly taste like chicken. I spent the afternoon with Michael and Jo going to the Hanoi Hilton. It didn’t take much time to go through the museum, which was heavy on the communist propaganda. The entire museum focused on the history of the prison under French control and the torture of the Vietnamese that occurred. There was a small room of artifacts from the American pilots who had been held at the prison. Basically, the message of the prison was that the French were terrible to the Vietnamese, but the American prisoners were treated wonderfully while under communist Vietnamese control. After the museum, we attempted to see the water puppet show, but the only tickets available were at 9:15pm. I opted to go home and meet up with Jenny. When she got home from work, a nap was on the agenda. The next thing I knew, it was almost 10pm. We woke up and headed towards the 17 Saloon to meet some of Jenny’s friends. The bar was a fabulous collision of Texan stereotypes and Vietnamese hipsters. After the saloon, the group went to Solace. It is a night club on a boat on the river. There is no longer a river, but the boat sits in the muck and is filled with the movers and shakers of Hanoi. We saw a ton of ex-pats and had an all-around grand time. It was a late night finished with fried rice and spring rolls.
Saturday, February 6th
We slept quite late today and didn’t have anything incredibly pressing on our agenda. YJ, Jenny, and I went for a late lunch at a Western place. I had hash browns with cheese and peppers. So great after a late night! After lunch, Jenny took me to her favorite massage place. The massages were cheap and so great! By the time we were done, it was almost 5 and we headed back to the house for another nap. Jenny woke me up and we left around 10 to grab dinner and check out an artsy Japanese place. Today was super relaxing and an almost perfect experience. I love the feel of Hanoi.
Sunday, February 7th
Yet another morning of sleeping in! I am getting used to this lovely schedule we have. Today was destined to be a day of wandering and eating. Our first stop was the hidden café near the Hoan Kiem Lake. I tried coffee with yogurt, which may sound disgusting, but is quite delicious. It was hot today, so anything cool was a treat. The café overlooked the lake, but was found only after walking down a hall between two small shops. We chatted while watching the traffic below. Jenny and I walked to the café, so I slowly was becoming acclimated to crossing the street. However, I still feel as if every time I cross, I may die. I think it will get better, but I’m not totally sure how more people aren’t hit crossing the street. We stopped by the tailor and dropped off my pants to be altered and I ordered another pair to be made out of linen. I love the idea of having a tailor…maybe I’ll have more stuff made before I leave. After the tailor’s, Jenny and I went to get Avocado Milkshakes. I was apprehensive, but it turns out that they are delicious. At first, I assumed that the milkshake would be similar to an American milkshake, but instead of milk, ice cream, and chocolate, I found myself drinking a concoction of coconut milk, condensed milk, and avocados. I could eat them every day! We ate our milkshakes while sitting on miniature plastic stools outside a tiny shop surrounded by tons of Vietnamese. Each of the streets in the Old Quarter specializes in the goods sold. There is Silk Street, Lock Street, Milkshake Street, Plastic Street, and Sim Card Street. The idea of specialized streets is slightly confusing, but does make shopping quite easy. After milkshakes, Jenny took me on a tour of the Old Quarter, so I could get a better sense of the area. On one street, we found a woman selling omelets with herbs. After sitting down, Jenny ordered an omelet for us. Instead of an omelet, the vendor took two eggs and cracked them into small bowls. Instead of a hardboiled egg, I found myself staring at a veiny, fertilized duck egg. I watched Jenny to see if she would eat it. I knew that if she ate it, I would have to try it. I was growing more and more nauseous as I sat. I knew I could not swallow any of it, but I was nervous about offending the vendor. Luck was on my side, so I was saved from having to eat the fertilized duck egg. Jenny finally communicated that we wanted an omelet. A fresh herb omelet was made, and it was absolutely delicious! Gotta love those street vendors! After the horror of fertilized eggs, we found a small spa and got manicures and pedicures. They were cheap and the place was tranquil. The city is always bustling and the traffic seems never-ending. Jenny wanted me to experience the lemon tea, so she took me to a café near the cathedral. Since it was Sunday, I got to see the people gathered for mass. People were on bleachers outside the church and some even sat on their motorbikes to participate. It is still a danger for people to attend mass, since it is not governmentally authorized. The tea was deliciously sweet. We sat on the plastic stools again, only this time the crowd surrounding us was very young and hip. Apparently, the cafes around the church are the place to meet and gossip. We met a young, Vietnamese officer and his friend, who is a local TV personality. We ended the day at the Museum Café near Jenny’s house. Since we had been grazing and sipping all day, we opted for a light dinner. We had spring rolls filled with duck and fried greens. Dessert was a fruit cup with condensed milk and ice. I adore the desserts and fresh fruit that is everywhere. Such a nice change from the cold of winter in Wisconsin!
Monday, February 8th
Jenny worked all day today, so I was left on my own. I started the day on a xe om, traveling fast through the city towards Ho Chi Minh. I wanted to spend the morning at the mausoleum complex. I arrived and found that Uncle Ho needed extra rest, so the mausoleum was closed for the day. I entered the grounds of the old French Palace and wandered through the beautiful gardens. I checked out Uncle Ho’s old house and his house on stilts. I found it a bit surprising that the man of the people had beautiful cars in his garage. There continue to be amazing contradictions in Vietnam. I walked towards Jenny’s work and checked out the art museum on my way. It was such a great museum housing collections spanning the history of Vietnam. My favorite paintings were the lacquer paintings. I absolutely adored the museum, even though it was ridiculously hot outside. Jenny had texted me that she had a work meeting, so I headed towards KOTO for lunch. It’s a restaurant that trains street kids for work in the restaurant industry. The food was superb and it was dining for a cause at its finest. I had a lovely, quiet lunch complete with fresh fruit. I cannot get over being able to eat tropical fruit every day. It is one of many perks to being in Southeast Asia. After lunch, I went to the Temple of Literature. The temple was built as a university ages ago and was a quiet place amidst the chaos of the city. I spent a couple of hours there before meeting Jenny for a coffee. I found the UNESCO headquarters and we trekked to a nearby German restaurant for a mango milkshake. I took a taxi home and spent the afternoon resting and relaxing. In the evening, we went to a Chilean movie at the Cinemateque. I loved the movie and the theater had a little café in the courtyard. Our dinner consisted of macaroons from the French bakery near Jenny’s house. I love Jenny for many reasons, but the fact that the size of her sweet tooth rivals mine is great. The movie traced two families and the drama that surrounds a modern family in the aftermath of the military regime. Yet another beautiful and adventure filled day in Hanoi!

Drama at the DMZ

I believe I am now on Korean time and quickly recovering from the effects of jet lag. I got up this morning at 7:15 and was ready to hop aboard the shuttle to the DMZ by 8:10. Steph met me at the hostel and we were off. We were unsure of what to expect, but the drive was quick and pretty. At one point, we passed under a bridge that held dynamite in the event that the North invaded the South. The bridge would explode and collapse, thereby slowing the attack on Seoul. During my time in Seoul, it's been easy to forget that the country is still technically in a state of war with the North. Today, there was no forgetting or avoiding that fact. We drove along barbed wire fences and saw the Han river that is divided at different points between the North and the South. We arrived at the first stop and transferred shuttles. At this point, we wandered out to the Freedom Bridge where prisoners of war were traded during the Korean War. The bridge is closed, but we took pictures and could see the bridge from a look-out point.
We boarded the shuttle to the DMZ and went through the checkpoint. After going through checkpoints in Israel, the process here was a piece of cake. We wrote our names and passport numbers on a sheet of paper and never showed the guards our papers. Steph and I had opted for just the morning tour, which consisted of the DMZ and the Third Tunnel. After the armistice agreement, North Korea dug multiple tunnels under the DMZ to allow for covert military access into South Korea. The South Korean military has discovered 4 tunnels thus far, but a North Korean defector claims that there were 20 tunnels included in the original plan. We trekked down into the tunnel and walked a little ways in. We couldn't go all the way to the North Korean side, but it was still trippy to think about how close we were to North Korea.
Our tour guide was amazing and super bubbly. It didn't seem to fit perfectly since we were witnessing some very serious landscape and thinking about the horrible things happening on the other side of the DMZ. She was very informative and answered any questions we had. Our final stop of the tour was at a train station. The station was the last one north, but is also a symbol of the hopeful future involving a reunification of the Korean peninsula. It was shiny and beautiful, but eerie since it was empty.
Steph and I made it back to the city around 1 and headed straight towards the bank. I needed to exchange some money, which involved signing a form that included my passport number. It was a little bit of a process and a new experience. We ate lunch in Insadong at a traditional restaurant. The meal was bibimbap that is a popular Korean dish with lots of veggies, an egg, and rice. I was not a huge fan of the seaweed involved, but it was still good to experience it. Bulgogi is still my favorite Korean dish, but I'm always willing to try new things.
After lunch, Steph and I were cold and tired, so we opted for a Korean movie to pass the time this afternoon. The weather had been nice, but today was bitterly cold. We had toyed with the idea of visiting a palace, but the thought of being outside for an extended period of time was not appealing. We found a movie that looked like it involved dancing of some sort. When we asked the salesman what it was about, we were informed that it was action/comedy. We forgot to ask about English subtitles, but decided to just go for it. The movie involved lots of physical comedy and was entertaining. I was immersing myself in the language and culture, while staying out of the cold. It was a win/win situation.
We met Nick at home after the movie and discussed dinner options. Last night, Stephanie and Nick took me to an AMAZING Nepalese restaurant. I got the Everest Special Curry Chicken that was so yummy. I have to say that I may enjoy Thai and Indian food more than Korean. For dinner tonight, we opted for Bulgogi at the neighborhood restaurant again. I know it may be silly to eat the same thing twice in 4 days, but it is so good and a fitting meal for my last night in Korea. We had more great conversation and food. Steph and Nick have been SO hospitable and wonderful. I'm blessed to have friends like them! Since Steph has had off work, she's been able to be a tourist with me and be my guide to the city. I know my adventures and experience has been better because of her!
After dinner, we were super tired, so I headed back to the hostel. I took the metro all by myself and didn't get lost once. It's a good sign of how the rest of the trip will go. :) Tomorrow entails a visit to a palace, the Namdaemun Gate, and an art museum before flying out to Hanoi. I can't believe I already move on to Vietnam tomorrow. I have a sneaking suspicion this trip is going to fly by!

Annyong Haseyo

"Auntie sleeping. Auntie sleeping." My morning of January 30th started with my beautiful nephew informing my sister that I was sleeping. She attempted to shush him, but I was now awake and decided to enjoy the last few hours with him before jet setting off to Asia. The day was spent prepping for my trip. I, of course, had not packed nor had I truly decided what I was going to take with me. I think I put it off because packing everything I would need for 2 months in one backpack was a daunting task. Katie was a phenomenal source of packing advice and helped me narrow down my clothing options. I've packed only black shirts to make my dirtiness much less noticeable. I'm coming to terms with the fact that I'm going to super dirty throughout this trip. Shirts will be worn 3-4 days before washing. I hope I don't become the smelly kid that no one wants to be friends with. :)

I arrived at the airport around 5:15. My first flight to Chicago left at 7:23, so two hours was plenty of time to make the domestic flight. I approached the United counter with my excitement growing with each step. There was no line, so I headed to begin the self check-in. The woman behind the counter approached me and asked where I was headed. She then informed me that United had no more flights on the 30th out of Minneapolis. I panicked and told her that my flight left at 7:23. She looked up my itinerary and told me my flight to Chicago left at 5:10 instead of 7:23 and that I should have received an updated itinerary in November. I received no such update, so I internally began freaking out. I quickly calculated in my head how fast I could drive to Chicago and realized that I would never make it in time for my 1:00 am departure to Seoul. The Gods were with me and they found a spot on a Delta flight leaving for Chicago at 7:10. I would make my flight!

I arrived at O'Hare and checked in with Asiana Air. I attempted to finagle my way into First or Business class, but opted to save my $3000 and took my coach seat instead. I had a window seat in the very last row. Instead of this being a bad thing, I ended up having tons of room to stand and stretch in the space behind the seats. I slept immediately after take-off and awoke to dinner being served. I was informed that I would be having beefsteak. Horrendous pictures of a nasty "meat" patty popped into my head. Instead, I enjoyed a small steak cooked medium. It was delicious, but I only stayed awake long enough to swallow my last bite. Aside from the short time I was awake to eat, I slept for the first 7 hours of the flight. The last 6.5 hours was spent watching movies and CSI:Miami. Before I could become truly sick of the plane, we began our descent to Incheon.

I deplaned and wandered trying to figure out how to get to my hostel. I checked my email and found that the hostel gave very specific directions from the airport. I purchased my bus ticket and was on my way. I got off at the right stop and exited into a very busy city. It was 8:15 am and I had completely lost the day of January 31st. My jet lag wasn't terrible, and I was excited to meet Steph and begin the day's adventures. The directions from the bus stop to the hostel did not make sense, so I wandered for a bit. I was nervous and slightly panicked as I moved from building to building trying to make out shops and find the hostel.

The Hongdae Guesthouse is located in a hi-rise buildings resembling a giant office building. I wasn't sure how or where the rooms would be housed in the building. I took the elevator up and found the reception area. The white board informed me that Mary was resting and would be back at 9. At this point, I wanted to dump my bag in my room and be off exploring. I stood in the hallway deciding what to do. A gentleman came to the door and let me in. I sat on the couch waiting for Mary to check me in. She was clearly not a morning person, so I played with the adorable puppies. After a bit, another hosteler came in and we enjoyed coffee and conversation. Mary didn't want me going to the room, because I could have awoken the others in the room. Steph arrived just as Mary gave me permission to drop my stuff off. We exited the building and were off exploring Hongdae. The neighborhood is fun, young and filled with bars and restaurants. We saw some sweet street art and headed to the metro.

The metro in Seoul is accessible and clean. We took the metro to Steph and Nick's neighborhood, Bulwang, and wandered through an outdoor market. I took in the sights of fish and grains being sold. For lunch, Steph took me for bulgogi. It is a type of Korean BBQ. Each table had a little grill where you grilled the meat. I added garlic, onions, and kimchee to my creation. To eat the grilled yumminess, I took a piece of lettuce with rice and added the grilled contents to the top. In theory, you would form a lettuce wrap. In reality, I shoved my attempt at a lettuce wrap into my mouth and tried not to drop the contents all over the table. Bulgogi is not the food for a first date...it was messy and absolutely amazing.

After lunch, we headed to Gyeongbuk Palace. Steph and I had the place almost entirely to ourselves and spent a couple hours wandering and taking in the beautiful sites. The temples were painted with vibrant blues, greens, and reds. I felt completely at peace and loved seeing the grounds. There was a frozen pond with a small pagoda on an island in the middle. The area was serene.

Next up was Insadong and a yummy kiwi smoothie in a quiet tea house. The area is very traditional and was never bombed during the Korean war. Because of this, the houses and buildings are very traditional. We sat in the tea shop planning the next couple of days. Before meeting Nick for dinner, Steph and I headed towards the statue of King Sejong, who invented the Korean alphabet. There was a little park area with greeters encouraging visitors to try on Hanboks, the traditional Korean dress. We tried on the costumes and quickly realized that we were the only ones over the age of 11 in the area trying them on. We embraced the situation and loved it. Further up the mall area was an ice skating rink and the hip place to be if you were in high school in Seoul. Teenage angst was in the air and couples were seen holding hands as they skated around. It was great!

I was trying to push through my jet lag, but it began catching up to me as Steph and I traveled to meet Nick. We went to Itaewon for Thai food, which is the neighborhood full of foreigners and has a spot nicknamed Hooker Hill. We avoided Hooker Hill, but checked out some of the shops around the area. It was great to see Nick again and tell him all about out adventurous day around Seoul. We ate at Nick and Stephanie's favorite Thai restaurant and I enjoyed the curry dish that Nick suggested. During dinner, I totally began feeling the time difference. By the end of the meal, I wasn't speaking in comprehensive sentences. Steph and Nick realized I needed to get back to my hostel and to sleep.

We took the metro to the Hongik stop and I said goodnight quickly. Once in my hostel room, I realized my bed was without covers, so I journeyed down to Mary. She was "making a party" and wanted me to join. I was dead on my feet, so I tried as politely as I could to turn her down. I escaped to the room and barely made it into pajamas before falling asleep. I slept well and was awake at 6:15 am. Nothing like an early start to my day.

Instead of waking the others in the room, I traveled downstairs to the Dunkin' Donuts for some coffee and to journal a bit. I met Steph at 9 to begin day 2 of Seoul Adventures. We traveled via the metro to Bukhansan and the location of our trek for the day. Steph and I decided to take a day and hike, so that I could enjoy a very Korean pastime. We got on the bus and spotted fellow hikers. The Koreans were decked out to enjoy a hike. I had my fleece and hiking boots, but these people had the packs, shoes, pants, walking sticks, and countless other accessories. I felt totally underdressed and insufficient. We opted to get off the bus when the group of hikers did and followed them. Steph didn't recognize the entrance, but we carpe diemed and continued to follow. The hike was very reminiscent of Wisconsin for a while. Then began the intense ascent. At some points, we were literally crawling up rocks and trying to find a path. It was beyond beautiful, quiet, and perfect. The higher we climbed, the more beautiful it became. We lost our group eventually, but found a gate and overlook instead. There was a sign pointing different directions giving suggestions for where to hike. We could see a temple in the distance, but were unsure how to get there. We headed towards the summit and looked down to see a giant statue in the midst of the temple.

The statue made the decision for us and we were determined to make it down to the temple area. We headed back to the sign and attempted to figure out how to get down. A path lay before us, so we took it. The beginning was steep but manageable. We thought it would get easier, but it was not meant to be easy. At one point, Steph and I were on our butts sliding down a gravel hill towards what we thought was the path. I am so lucky to be here with Stephanie and her joyful attitude. We could laugh at our situation and enjoy the absolute adventure of the hike. But determination paid off and the woods cleared to the giant statue. We had survived our slide down the hill and the reward was so amazing. The temple grounds were quiet and so so peaceful. It felt as if we were trespassing, and I kept waiting for someone to come out and tell us to leave. We walked up a few stairs to check out the rest of the area. We came upon what we thought may have been a food area and a woman emerged. She invited us in and we entered a plain room with tables on the ground. A group of women fed us and were so gracious. We were not allowed to pay for lunch, and it was delicious. Steph told me it was very traditional and once again so yummy. After lunch, we walked into one of the buildings and found an absolutely stunning alter with 3 golden statues.

We journeyed around and were deciding whether to attempt the journey back up the path of death or find another path. At this time in the day, we were running out of daylight. We were unsure of how long another path would take us, so we asked a passing hiker. He looked at the path we had taken and vehemently shook his head no. Instead, we followed his group back down and found the path much easier. We exited the park and caught a bus back to Steph's apartment. Now, we're waiting for Nick to finish work and will be going out to dinner shortly. The hike was so amazing and peaceful. Today being in nature was a complete reminder of how beautiful life is and how lucky we are to live on this beautiful planet. I was in awe of the majestic surroundings. I am so blessed with amazing friends and experiences. I'm loving Seoul. Tomorrow, we head to the DMZ. I hope a trip to a North Korean prison isn't included. :)