Melting in Vietnam

Updating has been much more complicated than I thought it would be. There doesn't seem to be enough time to see and experience all the sites and write everyday. My last four days in Hanoi passed peacefully. I finally got the feeling that I knew where I was in the city. I spent the mornings lounging and reading and the afternoons exploring. On Wednesday, Jenny and I went with a friend of hers, Trang, to the Perfume Pagoda. Contrary to the name, there is no perfume anywhere near the pagoda. We began the journey early in the morning and spent two hours on a mini bus with other tourists. The only way to the pagoda was via small rows boats. The hour long boat ride was serene and beautiful. We were on a quiet river with lush vegetation on both sides. All along the river we saw graves. Traditionally, Buddhists are buried in above ground graves and left for three years. After three years, someone goes and collects the bones. The bones are given to the family for the altar at home. Trang told us that the there are certain people who have the job of collecting the bones. It's a terrible job, but a decent way of earning a living. Our boat docked and we began the ascent to the pagoda. By this time, it was ridiculously hot. Jenny and Trang were fine, but I was melting. My body was waaayyy too used to the cold and was in shock. I had to rest often, but I finally made it to the top. We climbed the stairs down into a cavern that opened into a pagoda. It was absolutely breathtaking. The cave was cool and dark, yet the altars were filled with candles and offerings. We spent some time in peace before hiking back down. The climb down was much easier, and lunch was ready for us at the bottom. We were on the boat at sunset, so our entire boat ride back was during sunset. There were very few other boats around. The peace of the countryside was engulfing and so needed after the commotion and chaos of Hanoi. The entire day was lovely, but we were so sweaty and dirty by the time we got back to the city. We only had the energy for a milkshake and then showers before bed. Sleep came easy after the long day.